Blog Posts

A swimming pool that is not level is an expensive issue to repair

29/3/2023

Swimming pools require adequate engineering for concrete pools, taking into account soil types and location to other dwellings or boundaries, but what about fibreglass pools?
Fibreglass pools require a large hole to be dug and a sand or gravel base to be installed prior to the pool being craned into position. The sand base can settle or shift with time, but it is cheap for the pool installer, whereas gravel is more expensive but compacts to form a better base. Gravel is also less likely to compress over time than the sand will, resulting in fewer ripples or sags at the base of the pool.
The long-term risk with a fibreglass pool installation, however, may be the lack of required engineering in the hole you are digging out if it is installed on a difficult house block. The base material is generally just 50mm of gravel, and as the pool is filled, gravel is filled around the side gaps to the dug out area.
Engineering is still required when excavating on sloping sites so that adequate retaining walls can be designed and built to suit the requirements of the site. Retainment of any structure is important, and in addition to retention of the soil, drainage is also very important because water will naturally find the path of least resistance. You do not want water to wash out the areas around or under the swimming pool.
The photos above are from a house that I inspected last year; considering that the water is naturally level, you can clearly see that the pool is out of level by over 140mm lengthwise, as it is touching the pool coping edge on one side and not the other. The soil surrounding the pool is not stable, due to lack of adequate soil retention and drainage.
The pool regulations state that the pool should be installed a minimum of 1000mm off any boundary or structure. The council requirements for the application for a swimming pool clearly state that distances from boundaries, soil retention, and land contours must all be clearly shown and comply.
The pool, as shown, is next to a decked pool cabana area and very close to the rear fence. The other side of the fence is an unretained area with a large drop-off to another dwelling. The fence is not nonclimbable, and the gate opens into the pool area without a safety gate required by pool legislation. I have a duty of care to inspect pools for complience and state any issues that I find that are inadequate to the purchaser, but do not offer certification.
I do not offer pool compliance certification, as there is no legal requirement for the vendor to provide one; however, if you are purchasing a house with a pool, I would suggest that you request prior to settlement that one be supplied as part of your offer to purchase and have it reflected in the contract for the sale.
Further information can be found here regarding pool safety, council requirements, etc.
https://www.sa.gov.au/topics/planning-and-property/owning-a-property/pool-and-spa-safety

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Cost of electrical upgrades should be considered with older houses.

15/3/2023

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When looking at an older house consideration for additional allowances should be made and budgeted for when you are looking during the house open.
Simply looking at a fuse board like the one pictured below, old fuse carriers with wire fuses can be seen.
The cost to upgrade to a more modern and serviceable basic 9 pole enclosure within the old box, using circuit breakers, including labour is over $1,500.
The cost of fitting a new box with a basic 9 pole enclosure, including circuit breakers would be over $3,000.
Most houses will require double this allowance of circuit breakers for a family home.
This is before any additional wiring work is required, for the house to be able to supply all the modern requirements that you will need.
It's important to realise the risks associated with old wiring, old fuses and overloading issues due to modern living requirements can cause fires.
To rewire an old home, or even to relocate the power board may cost you between $3,000 to $7,000.
Another consideration is safety switches, often existing ones are not adequate for any additional wiring and further costs may be required, that an electrician will need to assess.
A simple call out fee for an electrician to inspect your issues or minor works ranges from $75 to $150, then they charge approximately $70 to $120 per hour for work performed.
A building and pest inspection will not advise you of the costs required to upgrade a fuse box and board, but having photos of the fuse board and advising of issues is often included.

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Leaking hot water service PTR valve

2/3/2023

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Leaking is often observed from a hot water unit's PTR valve at the time of
a building inspection, note it is normal for PTR valves to leak during a heating cycle due to the increase in pressure during the heating cycle.
If the valve continues to run, there may simply be an issue with the seal.
Opening and closing the valve may re-seal
the washer by blowing out any small pieces of grit that may be causing the issue, or the valve washer may require replacement.
The other reason for a continuous leak is the hot water system thermostat is not operating correctly. I will test the water temperature during an inspection and if the thermostat temperature is lower than 60-65 degrees it would appear to be functioning .
If the thermostat is damaged then at 99 degrees the valve will open.
I would recommend that the buyer should firstly try resetting the PTR valve by opening and closing the valve, as this should be done manually every 6 months. If this is not successful then engage a licensed plumber to assess and rectify by replacing a washer or the entire valve.

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Using a 4k Drone for roof inspections

7/2/2023

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I use a 4k drone for some roof inspections, where height or structural issues would have prevented some normal on roof inspections.
The 4k imagery is exceptional, allowing for close up details and it allows for whole roof inspections to be done, where areas were previously too dangerous to traverse.
Included below are a few examples of the image quality achievable with modern high quality drones.
I have RPA operator accreditation for remote aircraft with the Civil Aviation Safety Authority and my drone is registered to be used for building inspections.
It's just another service that I provide, to assist in advising you when buying a property

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A building inspection is about guidance and advise

11/1/2023

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Older homes with just renovated bathrooms should be the ideal purchase, as someone has done all the hard work. But unfortunately people selling houses also often choose the cheapest option or worse they choose to do it themselves.
Having looked at over a thousand inspections in Adelaide, I can honestly say you probably do not know what you are buying if you have not chosen a creditable building and pest inspector.
These photos are from a house I inspected a few years ago, it was a nice looking renovated house, the walls were freshly painted, a new modern kitchen installed and the living areas opened up, after having some internal walls removed. The bathrooms were also freshly renovated and it all looked beautiful. Looking closer however, the bathroom renovation was not adequately waterproofed, with moisture passing through the floors and into the adjoining walls. Wall patching could be seen during the inspection and the moisture meter was showing moisture transfer through both walls of the bathroom, old brick walls and the new gyprock walls. Other areas of concern for this dwelling, resulted in the purchaser not bidding for this dwelling and purchasing elsewhere.
The point of a house inspection is not to scare you from purchasing a property, but to give accurate advice, so you can choose what level of issues you are comfortable with.
Most houses, even newly built ones, have issues that can be resolved, some under warranty, others by negotiation with the vendor.
All houses have issues that can be repaired to a better standard, as long as you know about them when purchasing. If you have allocated a budget for these repairs within your spending limitations, you are thinking about your house purchase wisely.

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Rising damp issues explained

14/11/2022

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Rising damp can often be seen on solid plastered walls as peeling and flaking paint or exposed brick walls as flaking brickwork or by efflorescence or white salts on both.
Mostly caused by water being drawn up into the slab and lower brickwork by capillary action, into the porous masonry materials.
Often modern structures are built with adequate Damp Proof Courses (DPC membranes), however these membrane areas may be breached by poor path height or gardens located against the slab or walls.
The dampness can affect both underfloor structural timbers, floor boards and timber skirtings, causing rot and decay.
If left unrepaired it can also become a health issue affecting asthmatics, as it promotes mould issues to internal rooms. Often the air will smell musty in a room with damp issues.
I often see areas of lower wall patching to interior walls on older double brick houses, as the vendor is trying to sell the house without rectifying the issue due to the high costs involved.
This should be an area of great concern to any purchaser, who is looking at the house as repair work involves many stages and costs thousands of dollars for each room.
Even DIY kits that you can do yourself will cost around $50 per metre, just for the applicator and chemicals. You still need to drill holes, remove any damaged plasterwork, re plaster walls followed by cleaning up and re painting.

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10 faults you should look for at a house open inspection

12/10/2022

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The most common faults are often hidden in the roof cavity or on the house roof itself, however there are many other locations to check.

1. Cracked roofing tiles or cracked roof tile mortar, can cause water damaged ceilings. You can spot the issues by looking for water stained markings and rusted nail staining, sagging ceiling linings or collapsing ceilings.

2. Split lead flashings or sagging lead apron flashings on tiled roofing, especially look around the gable flashings, also will cause the same issues as above (1.), you just need to look at the roof profile to see where the leaks could be coming from. A building inspector will then examine the roof itself and ceiling space to check the damage. The issue is most people selling will paint everything to look nice, so it sells. So unless you have an inspection done you may not know.

3. Insulation often is not installed in older houses, resulting in expensive heating and cooling costs. An issue easily rectified but at a cost you may not have budgeted for.

4. Moisture transfer from bathroom damaged tiles and grouting issues. Grout is only waterproof for around 8 years, then breaks down due to chemical reactions with hair cleaning products and cleaning agents. Often the grout then simply washes away, cracks or falls out, resulting in moisture transfer to areas outside of the shower alcove. Moisture is often seen in the walls opposing the shower, such as the hallway, a building inspector will see this by either looking at the powdering of the solid wall render, or with a moisture meter on both gyprock or solid plaster walls. Bathroom wall and floor junction sealant also has a limited life, as it can peel or lift allowing mould and moisture ingress behind the tile surface.

5. Moisture due to poor ventilation under strip footing type homes, can result in major rising damp issues. As can rising damp issues caused by poor drainage away from the dwelling itself or damaged plumbing. A good building inspector will use a thermal camera or a moisture meter to investigate areas of concern, so in your report it will show not only the area of concern, but the reason for the issue. This then gives you some idea of what is required to rectify the issue. Slab floor newer houses have similar issues concerning moisture but most issues are plumbing related, or bathroom related.

6. Wood rot is common to timber fascias, due to leaking gutters or the use of modern LOSP timbers that have not been adequately sealed or re-treated after cutting. I have seen houses less than 10 years old with serious rot issues. Wood rot is common on fences with timber rails, old timber pergolas constructed with oregon and especially on timber window or door frames.

7. Termite damage is often located in damp timber, located under the house, however once they have entered the house, termites will keep feeding, working up through wall frames into the roofing timbers. Unfortunately the builders original pest spray will only work for around 8 years at best. It is recommended to have yearly inspections. If when looking at a house you notice round disks located in the garden, these are termite traps or inspection traps. You may find drill holes that have been filled with coloured grout around the perimeter of the house. This is where spray has been used prior. Sometimes you may note an area around the house, where the paving has dropped, this was where the trenching was dug for treatment around the exterior of the house. Any treatment should have a Durability Notice left at the house, often placed inside the power box lid to say what chemicals were used and when further treatment is required.

8. Settlement cracking is often located around doors and windows of both gyprock and brick walled houses. Gyprock cracking is often easily rectified by replacing the board linings, or just patching over and painting if minor. House brickwork cracking however can be an issue when brickwork may require removal and the wall rendered over again or even underpinning to lift the house by the footings back to the required levels to close up the wall cracks.

9. Cabinetry damage due to moisture ingress or just years of use. Common bathroom cabinets are constructed from cheap chipboard type materials that are prone to swelling and falling apart in a damp environment. Kitchen cupboards and bench tops also are easily damaged with water from the sink or leaking back splash areas. Black mould can grow in these damp areas, as can the area be conducive to termites activity.

10. Paint finishes are a minor issue, that on a recently painted house may be hiding many other issues. Paint can cover over black mould, rising damp, termite damage, wood rot, just to name a few things that would be expensive to rectify.

So this list should assist you in your search for your next home, but I would recommend that you choose a quality building and pest inspector, who has the opportunity to spend 90 plus minutes at the house, not just the 20 mins you had to look around. A good building and pest inspector will use tools such as a thermal camera, moisture meter, termatrac radar unit, cavity camera, ladders to gain access to areas of concern, high power torches etc. and the years of experience required to know what they are looking at when they see an issue, so it can be recorded

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Thermal cameras are used when required

6/10/2022

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Put simply, a thermal camera is a non-invasive tool that simply shows temperature variations, often caused by heat, dampness and dryness. As a building Building inspector I am looking for issues, such as damaged plumbing caused dampness or leaking wet areas such as from roofing and bathrooms. Not every report will include these photos, unless issues are found that need to be explained. Photos help to explain issues better than words alone.
Often most houses will have insulation gaps, that will result in poor thermal efficiencies that cause additional heating or cooling costs. These are shown in most reports if an issue is found.
Overloaded wiring caused heat signatures can be found on fuse boards, thermography can alert you of this dangerous wiring issue.
The variances in temperatures are shown in colours, cool is purple or black, while hotter is yellow or white.
Thermal cameras can even detect the location of wall framing or missing wall framing in structures that have been completed. This is often seen in garage conversions done by DIY house flippers.
Unfortunately, due to temperature variations of a house, if a house has been closed up for a long time, the camera will not see any temperature differences and find nothing, as the house is all the same temperature.
This is why both a moisture meter and a thermal camera is required when inspecting.
Thermal cameras can also be used for assisting in finding termite mudding behind walls and other issues.

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Rammed Earth structures

3/8/2022

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Rammed Earth is a beautiful product that can last hundreds of years when properly installed and is resilient to most environmental conditions.
The basic method of construction is to use locally obtained earth if suitable, combined with a mix of sand, aggregate, with some cement to stabilize the mix and some waterproofing admixture.
The mixture is heavily compacted between formwork, which when removed produces natural looking earthy walls.
Careful batch mixing and maintenance is however important, to ensure that the finished product is stable, otherwise some areas may weather or degrade as in these photos as additional waterproofing is required every 10 or so years.
As a walling product, it has fantastic thermal value for internal walls and has great sound absorption qualities. External walls can absorb heat and cold, so often insulation (foam panels) can be added during the build.
As a product it is also fire proof, it is termite proof and relatively stable to environmental conditions, although incorporated into a structure, often includes other materials that are not.
Wall thickness varies but 300mm is standard and provides a load bearing wall to support roof framing, although this still requires engineering for council approval.
Fixings such as masonry plugs or anchors can be used, but at twice the normal length of embedment, services such as plumbing and electrical are installed during the build process, so as to not affect the finished wall surfaces.

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June 01st, 2022

1/6/2022

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Composite decking has advantages, such as not requiring maintenance to look good all year around. Priced comparably similar to timber decking, it may be attractive to the DIY buyer. Unfortunately, it is required to be adequately installed, otherwise it may become non-functional very fast. The deck I saw last week had many poor DIY issues, resulting in movement of the decking boards. Some areas of the decking was completely unsupported as the decking had slipped off the joists. Sewer inspection points were decked over without thought to access points, resulting in quite a few decking boards that will require removal to access if required. The composite decking boards were attached with DIY concealed fix clips, which gives a nice clean look, but also resulted in every board sliding out of position. This is not common, although composite decking boards are reactive to temperature variations, the boards can change in length once cut. Some brands recommend picture framing or breaker boards that help reduce movement as they are fixed with screws into the underside of the deck. Other brands such as Modwood allow for surface fixing, that would resolve this issue. When installing, a 2mm gap between the cut ends is required, due to expansion on some brands. Another notable issue, is that the decking can get very hot under foot, if installed as a low level deck with limited ventilation. Some brands require 300mm clearance others